CROCHET BABY DRESS
DISCLAIMER
First and foremost I take no credit for any of the FREE pattern links on this page none of these are any of my work but are the work of many talented people who have donated them generously for everyone to share ,please be grateful to them for their generosity and DO NOT try to sell these patterns or pass them off as your own
Grateful thanks to generosity of the very talentedDISCLAIMER
First and foremost I take no credit for any of the FREE pattern links on this page none of these are any of my work but are the work of many talented people who have donated them generously for everyone to share ,please be grateful to them for their generosity and DO NOT try to sell these patterns or pass them off as your own
the designers and writers of this beautiful pattern and for allowing this pattern to be shared freely and to
for it's publication
If you use this blog regularly please take the time to leave me a comment your feedback helps me to look and search for the patterns that are most popular ,it only takes a few seconds of your time and longer for me to find them THANK YOU Also if you want to get the FREE pattern link as soon as they are posted onto this blog because that's where they appear first then you can subscribe to my emailing list where you will be notified straight away as soon as a pattern as been posted, your email is not saved by me and i will not have access to it as this is an automated system
FOR 100'S MORE FREE CROCHET PATTERN LINKS CLICK ON THE PICTURE BELOW
CLICK ON THE FIRST PICTURE TO DOWNLOAD ACCESS
sometimes these links may take you to another site where you may have to register to obtain the FREE pattern ALL these sights are completely safe and registration is FREE ,the registration block is simple to stop spammers getting onto the sights and posting things that No decent person wants to see, it's there to protect us all from the Wrong sort of postings please have patience for this and understanding of there protection of us all .( Please keep in mind that someone as taken the time and patience to design and write these wonderful patterns then donate them freely for YOU to access )
This is a very simple little sundress that can be manipulated in so many ways! If you use sport weight yarn & a 3mm hook, you will gain a preemie size, DK & a 4mm hook will give you a newborn size, DK & a 5mm hook will get you 0-3 months size, & worsted weight & a 5.5mm or 6mm hook will give you 3-6 months size.
Stitches used: ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
V-stitch = double crochet, chain 1, double crochet, all in the same spot.
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
V-stitch = double crochet, chain 1, double crochet, all in the same spot.
sl st = slip stitch
Yoke:
Row 1: Chain 68, in 4th chain from hook, dc 1, & dc 1 in each chain for the next 8 chains (10 stitches total). V-stitch (double crochet, chain 1, double crochet) in the next chain. ( this is the back half, the extra 3 stitches count as button tab.) dc in the next 15 chains. V-stitch in the next chain. (this is one shoulder side).
dc in the next 15 chains. V-stitch in the next chain. (this is the front of the dress). dc in the next 15 chains. V- stitch in the next chain. (this is the other shoulder side.) dc in the next 7 chains, chain 3 & turn.
You will notice that there are 3 extra stitches on one side, this is because those stitches will be used as the button tab.
Row 1: Chain 68, in 4th chain from hook, dc 1, & dc 1 in each chain for the next 8 chains (10 stitches total). V-stitch (double crochet, chain 1, double crochet) in the next chain. ( this is the back half, the extra 3 stitches count as button tab.) dc in the next 15 chains. V-stitch in the next chain. (this is one shoulder side).
dc in the next 15 chains. V-stitch in the next chain. (this is the front of the dress). dc in the next 15 chains. V- stitch in the next chain. (this is the other shoulder side.) dc in the next 7 chains, chain 3 & turn.
You will notice that there are 3 extra stitches on one side, this is because those stitches will be used as the button tab.
Row 2:
dc into 2nd dc from end (ch 3 acts as first dc on row), dc 1 in the next 6 dc’s. V-stitch into the chain1 center of V-stitch. dc into the next 17 dc’s. V-stitch into the ch1 center of V-stitch. dc into the next 17 dc’s. V-stitch into the ch1 center of V-stitch. dc into the next 17 dc’s. V-stitch into the ch1 center of V-stitch. dc into the next 11 dc’s, ch 3 , turn.
dc into 2nd dc from end (ch 3 acts as first dc on row), dc 1 in the next 6 dc’s. V-stitch into the chain1 center of V-stitch. dc into the next 17 dc’s. V-stitch into the ch1 center of V-stitch. dc into the next 17 dc’s. V-stitch into the ch1 center of V-stitch. dc into the next 17 dc’s. V-stitch into the ch1 center of V-stitch. dc into the next 11 dc’s, ch 3 , turn.
Row 3:
dc into 2nd dc from end (ch 3 acts as first dc on row), dc into the next 12 dc’s. V-stitch into the ch1 center of V-stitch. dc into the next 19 dc’s. V-stitch into the ch1 center of V-stitch. dc into the next 19 dc’s. V-stitch into the ch1 center of V-stitch. dc into the next 19 dc’s. dc into the next 9 dc’s. Ch 3 & turn.
dc into 2nd dc from end (ch 3 acts as first dc on row), dc into the next 12 dc’s. V-stitch into the ch1 center of V-stitch. dc into the next 19 dc’s. V-stitch into the ch1 center of V-stitch. dc into the next 19 dc’s. V-stitch into the ch1 center of V-stitch. dc into the next 19 dc’s. dc into the next 9 dc’s. Ch 3 & turn.
Row 4:
dc into 1st dc, (skip 1, 2 dc, ch1, 2 dc) into next dc 4 times. 2 dc into ch 1 center of V-stitch, ch 1, 2 dc into NEXT V-stitch center. (skipping 19 dc’s & Thus forming the arm-hole). (skip 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) 10 times, then 2 dc into ch 1 center of V-stitch, ch 1, 2 dc into NEXT V-stitch center. (skipping 19 dc’s & Thus forming the 2nd arm-hole), (skip 1, 2 dc, ch1, 2 dc) into next dc 4 times, skip 1, 2 dc into the next stitch ( there will be three stitches left, this is ok, it forms the button tab), ch 1 & slip stitch join to the other 2 dc’s at beginning of row 4, thus forming last (set). ch 3, but DO NOT turn.
All of the remaining rows will be worked in the round.
dc into 1st dc, (skip 1, 2 dc, ch1, 2 dc) into next dc 4 times. 2 dc into ch 1 center of V-stitch, ch 1, 2 dc into NEXT V-stitch center. (skipping 19 dc’s & Thus forming the arm-hole). (skip 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) 10 times, then 2 dc into ch 1 center of V-stitch, ch 1, 2 dc into NEXT V-stitch center. (skipping 19 dc’s & Thus forming the 2nd arm-hole), (skip 1, 2 dc, ch1, 2 dc) into next dc 4 times, skip 1, 2 dc into the next stitch ( there will be three stitches left, this is ok, it forms the button tab), ch 1 & slip stitch join to the other 2 dc’s at beginning of row 4, thus forming last (set). ch 3, but DO NOT turn.
All of the remaining rows will be worked in the round.
Row 5:
dc 1, ch 1, 2 dc into join ( ch 3 acts as 1st dc in row), (2dc, ch 1, 2 dc) into the ch1 of each ( ) set, all the way around, treating the join under the arms as a ( ) set. You should have 21 ( ) sets altogether.
sl st join last ( ) set into first ( ) set. sl st through very top of 1st 2 dc’s (1 is a dc, 1 is a ch3) in the round, so that you are now in the center of the ( ) set. This sets you up for the next round of ( ) stitch sets, allowing for a seamless look.
dc 1, ch 1, 2 dc into join ( ch 3 acts as 1st dc in row), (2dc, ch 1, 2 dc) into the ch1 of each ( ) set, all the way around, treating the join under the arms as a ( ) set. You should have 21 ( ) sets altogether.
sl st join last ( ) set into first ( ) set. sl st through very top of 1st 2 dc’s (1 is a dc, 1 is a ch3) in the round, so that you are now in the center of the ( ) set. This sets you up for the next round of ( ) stitch sets, allowing for a seamless look.
Rows 6- 16:
chain 3, dc 1, ch 1, 2 dc into join ( ch 3 acts as 1st dc in row), (2dc, ch 1, 2 dc) into the ch1 of each ( ) set, all the way around, sl st join, & sl st to center of ( ) set. Repeat 10 times.
chain 3, dc 1, ch 1, 2 dc into join ( ch 3 acts as 1st dc in row), (2dc, ch 1, 2 dc) into the ch1 of each ( ) set, all the way around, sl st join, & sl st to center of ( ) set. Repeat 10 times.
Row 17:
Break off yarn if you are doing a contrast color. with contrasting color, sl st between ( ) set joins, and make a shell of 7 dc’s into center of ( ) set. sl st inbetween next ( ) set, & continue around, to make a total of 21 shells.
Break off yarn if you are doing a contrast color. with contrasting color, sl st between ( ) set joins, and make a shell of 7 dc’s into center of ( ) set. sl st inbetween next ( ) set, & continue around, to make a total of 21 shells.
Finishing:
sc around neck-line in contrasting color. You may also wish to sc around the armholes.
Add a button or two sewed onto the flap in the back, no need for button-holes as the dc stitches work just fine for it.
Also, if you wish, the buttons may be the front of the dress just as easily as the back.
sc around neck-line in contrasting color. You may also wish to sc around the armholes.
Add a button or two sewed onto the flap in the back, no need for button-holes as the dc stitches work just fine for it.
Also, if you wish, the buttons may be the front of the dress just as easily as the back.
FOR 100'S MORE FREE CROCHET PATTERN LINKS CLICK ON THE PICTURE BELOW
No comments:
Post a Comment
Note: only a member of this blog may post a comment.